So as the functions of our cameras get more sophisticated; they also become more complicated.  We are provided the opportunity to express true creativity through auto-bracketing, which are the fundamental building blocks to a solid HDR exposure.  A High Dynamic Range image, or HDR is the combination of several images that are taken at different exposure values.  Once the images are saved, you must use a post-processing tool such as Topaz HDR Fusion, Photomatix, or Photoshop itself.  We will get to how to use these in a minute, but first let’s explore the custom settings on Canon camera’s that will let you excel in capturing the bracketed images for an HDR image.

With higher end Canons such as the Canon 7d, or the 5d MarkII, they come with customizable camera settings that we can program.  On the camera dial they are C1, C2, C3.  What makes the HDR successful is the capture of extreme exposure values (-5, -3 ,   -1, etc).  Technically speaking, you only need 3 bracketed images to create an HDR, but I have found that taking a minimum of 6 shots create the range that is necessary for a shot to really stand out. By programming your C1 function on your camera to take bracketed pictures is the first step.  Then you should set the exposure value for those photos at -5, 0, +5.  These will be the first group of your 6 that you will need.  You will want to also have matrix metering set as well to ensure the best overall exposures.  Finally, make sure that you are at least a depth of field of f/8 or higher.  This will ensure the maximum amount of area to be in focus.

Next you will need to do the exact same process for you C2 function on your camera.  Programming the bracketed photos, f/8 or higher, and matrix metering are all crucial.  This time though on your exposure value to -3, 0, +3.  This will give you the 6 images you will need (technically 5 since your program will remove the one of the two images that are valued at 0 since they are the same ev.)

Setting up your Shot
Make sure that you are using at least a tripod to eliminate as much camera shake as possible.  This shake will produce “ghosting” on your image that will make you HDR look unnatural.  I also highly recommend a trigger switch as well to eliminate as much shake as possible.  When depressing the switch, make sure you hold it in until all three pictures have been taken.  All you have to do is hold the button, and the custom programming on our C1 and C2 function will do the correct exposure values that we had set up earlier.

Once the first set of images have been captured, make sure you switch to your C2 function to capture the next set of 3 images.  I use C1, C2, and C3 for my HDR’s because use bracketed shots with exposure values of -5, -3, -2, 0, +2, +3, +5, and that is just personal preference.  Only you can decided how many bracketed images you want to use.

Processing
Since there is a variety of programs that can be used, I will not go into detail on each one, but if you would like specific information or a tutorial on how to use Topaz HDR Fusion, Photmatix (My Favorite), and Photoshop, feel free to send me a message and we can set up a tutor session.  Sessions are 1 hour long, and there is a discount on price when you purchase more than one.

The single most important part of an HDR is finding something interesting enough to capture.  I know the quote is used over and over in our field, but it still stands true today, “The single most important component of a camera is the 12 inches behind it” –Ansel Adams.  We as photographers have to find the moments in life that are worth shooting.  Next time your out shooting, and a sunset is coming up, or some great clouds roll in with a large tonal range, try out your HDR image capturing.  You just might fall in love with your results.

For a few samples of my HDR’s feel free to click on the links below.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/yscdesigns/5682133414/in/set-72157626634370748/#/photos/yscdesigns/5682133414/in/set-72157626634370748/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/yscdesigns/5682133414/in/set-72157626634370748/#/photos/yscdesigns/5681572939/in/set-72157626634370748/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/yscdesigns/5313592788/in/set-72157625520319129#/photos/yscdesigns/5313592788/in/set-72157625520319129/lightbox/

Until next time, always remember to remove your lens cap.

Matthew Budnick
YSC Designs
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